Insulating Jacket: Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer
I love this jacket. I got it on clearance, thankfully, but I wore it all last winter in temps from 40 degrees on down below freezing. On this trip, I wore it in my sleeping bag a number of times and used it around camp as I was getting ready in the morning. The zippered pockets were good for keeping electronics (phone, camera battery, extra external battery) warm in my bag when temperatures dipped. It was also handy on rest days in Two Harbors and Grand Marais since it was still plenty chilly down by the lake, even in June! It's definitely one of my favorite pieces of gear.
Wind Jacket: Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer
I also love this jacket and wore it most mornings during the early part of my trip. This is one of those things that I probably didn't really *need* to take with me, but this tiny little jacket makes me happy, so I took it and used it frequently.
Fleece Hat and Mitten/Gloves
I wore my fleece hat every night but one. I was often going to sleep before it was totally dark, but when I pulled the hat down, that didn't matter at all. I didn't use the mittens as frequently, but they helped make cold mornings more comfortable. Neither item was probably strictly necessary, but I was glad to have both.
Rain Jacket: Patagonia H2No
I've used this jacket a lot. It's a bit on the heavy side, but it keeps the rain out and keeps me warmer than some others I've tried.
Rain Kilt: ZPacks
My decision to take this rather than my rain pants was a last minute one and was mostly decided by the mud on the trail. I didn't want to try to take off/put on rain pants with muddy shoes, so the kilt went in the bag and the rain pants got sent home from Duluth with my husband. I didn't use this too many days, but it was handy to have for sitting on wet benches at the campsites and worked reasonably well in the rain. I'd take it again. I also used it to help me keep wet gear separate from dry gear in the tent by using it as a barrier between my wet pack and my dry sleeping bag on days that it rained.
Rain Socks: Plastic Bags
I ended up using these for garbage instead of on my feet. Except for the one morning that my socks were frozen, temps were always high enough that my socks kept me warm even when the trail was wet.
Sleeping Clothes
Plan: fuzzy socks, wool tights, wool shirt. Only the long sleeved Icebreakers shirt lasted the entire trip. The fuzzy socks and wool tights got sent home. I had originally planned to switch between two pairs of hiking underwear (one synthetic pair and one wool pair), but the wool pair was often too warm on uphills, so I ended up using that pair for sleeping and sent the heavier tights home. I also started hiking later in the day, taking an early evening break for dinner and then hiking a few more miles to my overnight site, so I didn't need the tights for camp-wear, either.
Camp Shoes: Nike something-or-other
I got my camp shoes on clearance somewhere. Some people don't take camp shoes, especially if they're using lightweight trail runners, but I was so, so happy to have dry shoes at the end of each day that these were definitely worth their weight for me. Since my feet were wet almost all day, every day, having something dry to put on at the end of the day helped them stay healthier.
Mosquito Head Net
It's Minnesota. Minnesota has mosquitos. Take a head net.
Sunday, December 18, 2016
Gear Review: Hiking Clothes + Shoes
From the bottom up, here's a review of what I wore every day.
Shoes: Saucony Peregrine 4 (women's size 11)
I am really happy with these shoes and went out and bought another pair right after I got back from my trip. Plenty of room in the forefront but a narrow enough heel to keep my foot in place. These were almost always muddy and wet, or at least damp during the entire hike except on rest days when I could get them really dry, and they held together surprisingly well. I wore small holes in them on both sides of the forefoot early in the trip, but they didn't get worse once they were there. I got them about a size bigger than my normal size and had zero blisters or hot spots the entire trip. Their light weight, though, means that they are pretty porous, and I regularly had mud coming in through the tops of the toes. I'd wash them out in a river every couple of days if it wasn't too chilly.
Shoes: Saucony Peregrine 4 (women's size 11)
I am really happy with these shoes and went out and bought another pair right after I got back from my trip. Plenty of room in the forefront but a narrow enough heel to keep my foot in place. These were almost always muddy and wet, or at least damp during the entire hike except on rest days when I could get them really dry, and they held together surprisingly well. I wore small holes in them on both sides of the forefoot early in the trip, but they didn't get worse once they were there. I got them about a size bigger than my normal size and had zero blisters or hot spots the entire trip. Their light weight, though, means that they are pretty porous, and I regularly had mud coming in through the tops of the toes. I'd wash them out in a river every couple of days if it wasn't too chilly.
Insoles: Spenco Flat
My feet are funny, and most arch support feels like it's in the wrong place for one foot, so I went with totally flat, thin insoles and had no foot problems during the trip. Before I switched to lightweight trail runners, I'd often have tendon troubles when hiking. Training + this shoe/insole combo kept those troubles away during the whole trip. My feet were definitely sore in the mornings (both during and after the trip), but it was whole-foot soreness instead of painful tendonitis. I might experiment with a bit thicker insoles in the future, but overall, these worked for me and after the trip, I bought another pair to go with my new shoes.
Socks: 1 pair Darn Toughs (pictured below), 1 pair Wright Socks (pictured above), 1 pair of fuzzy socks to sleep in
My original plan was to rotate between the Darn Toughs and Wright Socks for hiking and keep the fuzzy socks as my dry sleeping pair. However, it soon became clear that there was no point in having two pairs of wet, dirty socks, so I wore the Darn Toughs almost exclusively--all but 10 miles of the trail. At my first resupply point, I sent the fuzzy socks home and kept the Wright Socks for camp/sleeping socks.
I wore the Wright Socks for 10 miles of the trail--one 4-mile day early in the trip when I was babying a sore knee and later for a half day after this picture was taken and I realized I should probably wash and dry the Darn Toughs:
I ended up slipping off a boardwalk into a bog with the Wright Socks on, and the advertised anti-blister properties of this brand simply don't work when they are wet (as I knew from one of my training hikes), so I promptly switched back to the wet Darn Toughs anyway. In Grand Marais, I shipped the Wright Socks home and picked up another pair of Darn Toughs to sleep in for the last few days of the trip. I was so, so excited to see a wall of clean, dry socks at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply that I couldn't resist buying a pair. I kept hiking in the pair you see above, though. After nearly 300 mostly-wet miles + who knows how many training miles, they socks still have no holes in them. They've worn thin along the outside edge of the sock but will probably go for another couple hundred miles before really wearing out. I highly, highly recommend them.
Gaiters: Dirty Girl
No problems with these, either. At about an ounce, they're light and you can customize your order to your ankle circumference. I ordered them a little big and then added elastic so I could adjust the size, which is nice if you wear different thicknesses of pants during different seasons. The velcro that's supposed to keep them on your shoes never really worked since my shoes were soaking wet all the time, but they stayed attached to the shoes pretty well anyway. My shoes have a little tab near the toes for hooking them on, which was also convenient. For the Superior Hiking Trail, these were best at keeping ticks off of my legs, especially in the more overgrown/grassier sections in the northern parts of the trail. I had only one tick bite during the trip, and I saw it crawl off my gaiters and onto my leg as I was changing clothes the last night of the trip. I couldn't get it brushed off quickly enough before it bit me, but I pulled it off within seconds. I'd definitely wear these again, too. I soaked them in permethrin before the trip, but they were wet so often that one treatment didn't last the entire trip.
Pants: Cabella's Guidewear
I don't remember the specific model of these pants, but I've had good luck with 2-3 different styles from this series. They tend to be cheap and sized for those of us who are a bigger than the average North Face/Patagonia/Prana adventurer. I planned to wear long-pants the entire trip, so this specific pair is just pants (the legs don't zip off to make them shorts). I used the cargo pockets for my map on one side and my phone on the other. The velcro on both cargo pockets was worn out by the end of the trip. I superglued it back on when it fell off, but in the future, I'd reinforce the velcro by sewing it on more firmly before the beginning of a trip if I planned to get in and out of the pockets several times each day like I did on this trip. I kept them tucked into the gaiters and soaked them in permethrin before I left, and I saw only a couple of ticks on them during the last couple of days when the trail was grassy/overgrown and the permethrin probably wearing out.
Underwear: Champion 9" inseam boxer briefs
Ladies, especially chubbier ladies, I think the guys are holding out on us. These long inseam shorts are great for preventing thigh chafe and wedgies. I use a pStyle, so having shorts with a fly was a priority for me (no bare skin = no bug bites during bathroom breaks). I tried 6 or 7 brands before my trip but found that these were the best.
Shirt: Levi's Thrift Store Special
This is my favorite hiking shirt--loose enough to keep me cool when it's warm but warm enough to keep me warm while I'm on the move down to around 40 degrees. It was $6 at Savers. There's a little pilling at my lower back where it rubbed against my pack all day every day, but it's still going strong. Fabric content: 65% polyester, 35% cotton. I duct taped the slit at the sleeve when the mosquitos started coming out so they couldn't get in that way.
T-shirt: Wool
I love this shirt, but I ended up sending it home since I was barely wearing it. Temps were cool enough that I could wear my long-sleeved shirt all the time. There was no use stinking up another shirt, so home it went.
Bra: Cheap sports bra
I can't remember what brand this is, but it was a cheap but comfortable synthetic sports bra from Target. It worked fine, but it smelled pretty bad some days...
Hat: Superior Hiking Trail!
I have a small head, which makes finding comfortable hats a bit of a challenge. I started the trip with a nearly worn-out Life is Good hat with a brim that was barely clinging to the rest of the hat except by the seams at the edge, so when I got to the Superior Hiking Trail office in Two Harbors, I was thrilled to find a SHT hat that fit. I sent the old hat home, and my cat apparently went crazy over it (I think she missed me...).
Sunday, August 3, 2014
Monday, May 12, 2014
All the Things!
Well, trail conditions aren't ideal, and I'm probably going to be dealing with a whole lot of mud and some chilly nights, but I'm getting everything packed for the trail!
Jeff loaded up my little mp3 with some music for the trail. I rarely listen to anything, but this player has a radio I can use to get weather updates when I'm out of cell range, so I figured I might as well use it for tunes/podcasts, too.
Otherwise, I've been weighing and packing my gear. It's going to be cold and wet up in Minnesota, so I ended up adding back some clothing that I was originally going to go without. Plus, I like some of my comfort items (pillow!), so my base weight is around 16.5 pounds--more than I'd planned originally, but I'm happy with that for the start. Base weight doesn't include water, fuel, food, or other consumables, so when I add those things in, I'll never have to carry more than 30 pounds. Most of the time, I'll be between 20 and 25 pounds.
Here's my sleep system: I get cold at night, but this is a good set-up for me down to freezing. If it's colder than that, then I add my down coat and other outerwear to stay warm.
Pack + Repair Kit: At a bit over 3 pounds, this pack is on the heavy side, but it was more comfortable than any of the others I tried. I added two hip pockets to the belt and two shoulder strap pockets. The pack is lined with a clear plastic bag for waterproofing, and I use a Z-lite sit pad on top to help keep water out and to keep the sit-pad handy for breaks. The pack has a few safety pins for pinning wet socks to the outside of the pack so they dry in the sun (assuming there is sun).
My small repair kit is a ziploc bag with a bit of velcro, zip ties, cordage, super glue, emergency water treatment tablets (in case my filter fails), and a couple other tiny things in case the pack or any of my other gear decides to break. After watching MacGyver growing up, I'm pretty resourceful about fixing things, so this little kit should be enough.
Safety, Electronics, etc.: This pile is bigger than I thought it might be, but I'm ok with that for now.
I like my new wallet :)
Outerwear:
Clothes:
On the left is the outfit I'll wear basically everyday: pants, t-shirt, long-sleeved shirt, underwear, socks, sports bra, gaiters (keep crap and ticks out of my shoes)
In the middle is one outfit for sleeping: wool shirt, wool tights, fuzzy socks
Under that is my extra clothes: 1 change of underwear, 1 change of socks, camp shoes
On the right is my mosquito net, fleece hat, mittens, baseball cap, and bandana
Little stuff:
Top row: passport (in case of a cool Canadian trip opportunity), journal, maps
Upper middle: stuff I hope I don't need often: bug dope, salve, anti-chaff gel/powder, earplugs
Lower left quadrant: TP, hand sanitizer, menstrual cup/tampons, pStyle (possibly my favorite piece of gear), pee rag
Lower right quadrant: daily hygiene items (soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, Aleve), first aid kit
Far right row: compass/thermometer, survey tape (in case I go off trail), mini bic, mini leatherman, safety whistle, headlamp
Food: Food for 5 full days + Bear Bag + Bear Bag Kit (rope and rock bag) + spoon + extra ziplocs
Jeff loaded up my little mp3 with some music for the trail. I rarely listen to anything, but this player has a radio I can use to get weather updates when I'm out of cell range, so I figured I might as well use it for tunes/podcasts, too.
Otherwise, I've been weighing and packing my gear. It's going to be cold and wet up in Minnesota, so I ended up adding back some clothing that I was originally going to go without. Plus, I like some of my comfort items (pillow!), so my base weight is around 16.5 pounds--more than I'd planned originally, but I'm happy with that for the start. Base weight doesn't include water, fuel, food, or other consumables, so when I add those things in, I'll never have to carry more than 30 pounds. Most of the time, I'll be between 20 and 25 pounds.
Here's my sleep system: I get cold at night, but this is a good set-up for me down to freezing. If it's colder than that, then I add my down coat and other outerwear to stay warm.
- hiking poles that double as tent poles (Black Diamond)
- the tent (ZPacks)
- a sleeping pad (Exped UL 7)
- pillow (also Exped)
- sleeping bag (15 degree Montbell)
- a waterproof stuff sack that doubles as bellows to blow up the sleeping pad.
Food and water: I'm going to have more than enough water on this trail. There's so much snow melting right now that I'm going to have very wet feet part of the time. I'll probably never need to carry more than a liter of water on this trip, but I will need to filter and/or treat the water I find.
- small gatorade bottle (goes in pocket on shoulder strap for easy access)
- 1 liter Smartwater bottle for dirty (unfiltered/untreated) water
- 32 oz gatorade bottle for clean (filtered/treated) water
- Sawyer mini filter (screws onto Smartwater bottle)
- Sawyer backwash syringe to clean out filter
- Duct tape for repairs wrapped around syringe
- Jetboil cooking system (pot, stove, fuel, dish rag)
- Extra ziplocks for food storage
Pack + Repair Kit: At a bit over 3 pounds, this pack is on the heavy side, but it was more comfortable than any of the others I tried. I added two hip pockets to the belt and two shoulder strap pockets. The pack is lined with a clear plastic bag for waterproofing, and I use a Z-lite sit pad on top to help keep water out and to keep the sit-pad handy for breaks. The pack has a few safety pins for pinning wet socks to the outside of the pack so they dry in the sun (assuming there is sun).
My small repair kit is a ziploc bag with a bit of velcro, zip ties, cordage, super glue, emergency water treatment tablets (in case my filter fails), and a couple other tiny things in case the pack or any of my other gear decides to break. After watching MacGyver growing up, I'm pretty resourceful about fixing things, so this little kit should be enough.
Safety, Electronics, etc.: This pile is bigger than I thought it might be, but I'm ok with that for now.
- InReach satellite tracker
- Pepper spray
- Road ID bracelet (has medical and emergency contact info)
- Lip Balm w/ sunscreen
- Watch (I count this as a safety device. I rarely need to know what time it is, but I use the watch to monitor my pace so I can keep track of where I am on the map and where I can get to before dark)
- Phone + waterproof pouch
- Emergency $$
- Camera pouch (camera not pictured--some people just use the phone as a camera, but I want more pics, and the phone battery drains too fast if I use it all the time)
- Camera battery recharger
- Phone recharger
- External battery (charges any of my devices)
- Headphones (mp3 not pictured here)
- Wallet
- Ziploc bags for waterproofing electronics
I like my new wallet :)
Outerwear:
- Plastic bags for feet if it's really wet for too many days in a row
- Rain kilt (we'll see how I like this...I have my rain pants in reserve in case I want to switch back)
- Rain jacket (heavy, but it works)
- Wind jacket (I love this thing)
- Down jacket (love this thing, too)
Clothes:
On the left is the outfit I'll wear basically everyday: pants, t-shirt, long-sleeved shirt, underwear, socks, sports bra, gaiters (keep crap and ticks out of my shoes)
In the middle is one outfit for sleeping: wool shirt, wool tights, fuzzy socks
Under that is my extra clothes: 1 change of underwear, 1 change of socks, camp shoes
On the right is my mosquito net, fleece hat, mittens, baseball cap, and bandana
Little stuff:
Top row: passport (in case of a cool Canadian trip opportunity), journal, maps
Upper middle: stuff I hope I don't need often: bug dope, salve, anti-chaff gel/powder, earplugs
Lower left quadrant: TP, hand sanitizer, menstrual cup/tampons, pStyle (possibly my favorite piece of gear), pee rag
Lower right quadrant: daily hygiene items (soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, Aleve), first aid kit
Far right row: compass/thermometer, survey tape (in case I go off trail), mini bic, mini leatherman, safety whistle, headlamp
Food: Food for 5 full days + Bear Bag + Bear Bag Kit (rope and rock bag) + spoon + extra ziplocs
That's it!
Sunday, April 27, 2014
Monday, April 21, 2014
28 miles on the Ozark Trail: Johnson's Shut Ins to Taum Sauk and Back
With the long Easter weekend, it was time to test myself on a rigorous overnighter (maybe two nights if I couldn't do the miles!). I chose the Johnson's Shut-Ins to Taum Sauk section of the Ozark Trail. I'd been to JSI in 2006 on a cross-country bike trip just months after a reservoir above the park had broken, creating this path of destruction.
On a different day, I might have explored the Scour region more, but I'd already driven 2.5 hours to get here and wanted to get started on my miles for the day.
A sign at the trailhead warned of a controlled burn at Taum Sauk, so I dithered at this intersection for a while, checking maps and wondering if I should head toward Bell Mountain instead, but banking on the fact that they would have finished the burn before the long weekend and the resulting increased number of visitors, I headed toward Taum Sauk. The main drawback, though, was that this was supposed to be a really dry section of trail. If I couldn't get to the first water source because of the burn, I'd have to retrace my steps, so I went pretty conservative on my water and decided that I'd turn around if I got below 1 liter before getting within sight of a water source.
The trail was well marked but much rockier than I expected. My feet feel stronger after the 100 miles I put in during March, but I was still pretty cautious and grateful for the assistance of my poles on a number of occasions.
Spring wildflowers were out, and I saw a couple of snakes and a bunch of little lizards. Parts of the trail were wet with runoff from recent rains, but the rocks were the main feature.
There were a lot of rocks.
At about 6.5 miles, I found a little rivulet big enough to dip water from, so I put some in my dirty water bag to filter just in case I needed it before the real water source appeared. Just 50 yards after that, I came up on a group of 4 women about my age out for a two-night trip headed the opposite direction. They assured me that they'd gotten through the burned section and that there was plenty of water ahead. I was much less anxious after meeting them, but they weren't as happy to learn that there weren't any real water sources until they got to the state park. They were all training for longer trips and had more backpacking experience than I did, so it was nice to chat with them for a bit.
Even though I was getting tired, this little pine grove was great. It's amazing how nice pine needles feel under your feet after miles of pointy, pokey rocks. The soft tread didn't last long, just a few hundred yards, probably, but the trail was more gentle and shaded from here forward, so it wasn't too bad.
At the top of the falls, I saw a couple of possible campsites, but they were near where some day-hikers had been hanging out, and I wasn't sure I was allowed to camp there. I hadn't met my mileage goal for the day, but I was tired and wasn't sure I could find a better site. Plus, how often do you get to camp just feet from the top of a great waterfall? I sent Jeff a message from my satellite messenger telling him I was done for the day, but I didn't set up the tent. I was still hungry, so dinner was the first priority.
I love my little JetBoil. It took less than 2 min. to boil water for my Beef Stroganoff, and while my meal rehydrated and cooked, I peeled off my wet shoes and socks (wet from a big stream crossing a couple miles back), put on my camp shoes, and sat near the top of the falls, finally seeing an official trail marker on the other side of the river and confirming that I hadn't been on the right trail during my ascent to the top of the falls.
After my dinner, I felt better but the bugs were coming out and being annoying. Not really wanting to sit there for another couple of hours until dark, I decided to head around part of the Mina Sauk Loop at the top of the falls and find a quieter spot to camp near the top of Taum Sauk mountain, the high point of Missouri.
However, I started getting kind of worried when, as I kept hiking, the amount of land burned in the controlled burn earlier that week kept getting larger and larger. It was still smoking in a few spots, and I thought I might have a bit of trouble finding a spot for the tent that wasn't directly on the trail, which, because it was mostly rocks, was about the only unburned area in sight.
I made it to the high point of Missouri just before 7 p.m. and saw a grassy clearing nearby where I could come back to camp if I needed to, but I decided to go forward for another 15 minutes to see if I could find something better. That would give me just enough time to get back to the clearing and set up before dark if I needed to.
Eventually, I came on this small unburned area on some rocks with a great view of the sunset. Everything smelled like smoke, but I didn't have enough time to make it all the way around the loop back to the top of the falls where it wasn't burned, so this became my campsite for the night. If I'd had my new non-free-standing tent, I would have stayed back in the larger clearing where I could stake it more easily, but I had our old 5-pound biking tent that doesn't need to be staked, so I quickly pitched it on the rocks, washed up a bit with a baby wipe, made a quick call to Jeff, and was sound asleep soon after 8:30 with about 14.5 miles done for the day.
It had been in the 40s overnight, I think, and I was perfectly comfortable, even a bit too warm, overnight. I got up at 6 and had finished breakfast, packing, and all my morning chores before 7. I'm usually out of camp faster than that, but I'm out of practice. As I headed out, the trail was still about the only unburned part of the area until I got back to the top of the falls.
There, I found the trail I should have come up the previous day. It was pretty rugged, so I wasn't sad about my little shortcut yesterday, but I followed it as it dropped down right to the bottom of the falls. The falls only run in wet weather, so I was glad to see them. Pretty impressive! I managed to keep my feet dry on this stream crossing, but I knew I'd soon get wet on the larger creek crossing, so I didn't worry too much about the muddy sections of trail.
From the bottom of the falls, I'd retrace my steps back to my car at Johnson's Shut-Ins. This time, though, I had the advantage of knowing where my last water source was, so I drank almost a full liter before I left camp and carried minimal water during the morning to lighten my load.
When I hit the last stream crossing, I filtered a ton of water and stayed there for about a half an hour drinking 50 oz., eating a bag of chips, and having a small pile of M&Ms to fuel up for the harder miles ahead. I was reluctant to leave my little spot but confident that I had enough water this time. I could feel the temps rising. With a forecast of 80 degrees, I knew I had to stay well hydrated to keep headaches at bay. I don't do super well in the heat and sun once it gets that warm, but I was paying better attention to the map and being sure to drink at least 10 oz. every mile. I was peeing about every hour, so I was more than adequately hydrated!
I didn't take many pictures on the way back since most everything looked the same as yesterday, but this little guy stood still long enough for me to take its picture.
And this one wouldn't leave me alone during one of my breaks. Shooing it away was unproductive. Shade was in limited supply on most parts of the last 8 or so miles, so where there was shade, the bugs and I shared it. I sent Jeff a few texts from this spot, letting him know that I had 4 miles left and was really starting to drag.
As I rested, another group of boy scouts came by at what seemed like a really fast pace. I could tell some of the boys were hurting, and it sounded like they were getting low on water. I asked if anyone wanted a Duck Dynasty Nalgene bottle I'd picked up off the trail earlier (probably from one of the scouts I met yesterday since I was pretty sure it wasn't from that group of women I'd met), and one of the kids relieved me of carrying it and trying to find it a new home.
Before I left the shady spot, I ate a bunch of M&Ms and some other snacks, drank some Gatorade, and finally decided to power on, hopeful that the worst of the rocky sections were over, but I couldn't remember for sure.
I stopped again with a little over 2 miles to go and drank a bunch more. My feet and one knee were getting sore, my shoulders were aching, and I was ready to be done for the day. The final major descent was a challenge. Descending is usually more painful for me, especially late in the day, and this one was especially so. I had the beginnings of a blister on the bottom of one foot because of earlier descents with wet socks, but I'd changed into a dry pair almost as soon as I felt it, so it never got worse, but I was still babying it.
Just as I crossed into Johnson's Shut Ins, I saw this collard lizard on a downed tree. When I got home, I learned that the fire management in this area is partly designed to help their populations: http://www.nps.gov/ozar/naturescience/lizards.htm
I still had a ways to go to get back to the trailhead, but once I hit the park boundary, I knew I was going to make it.
This trip was the most miles I'd ever done in two days with the most weight in the pack on the most rugged trails, and I didn't feel totally incapacitated by the trip. I didn't feel awesome at the end, of course, but I felt ok. My feet were really sore as I limped into a Mexican restaurant in Farmington for dinner before finishing the drive home, but by the next morning, I was just sore and not in (much) pain, so I feel more ready for my trip than ever.
The breach happened in December 2005. Had it happened in the summer, there probably would have been fatalities as the state park campground was right in the path of the billion gallons that came through here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taum_Sauk_Hydroelectric_Power_Station#Upper_reservoir_breached
On a different day, I might have explored the Scour region more, but I'd already driven 2.5 hours to get here and wanted to get started on my miles for the day.
A sign at the trailhead warned of a controlled burn at Taum Sauk, so I dithered at this intersection for a while, checking maps and wondering if I should head toward Bell Mountain instead, but banking on the fact that they would have finished the burn before the long weekend and the resulting increased number of visitors, I headed toward Taum Sauk. The main drawback, though, was that this was supposed to be a really dry section of trail. If I couldn't get to the first water source because of the burn, I'd have to retrace my steps, so I went pretty conservative on my water and decided that I'd turn around if I got below 1 liter before getting within sight of a water source.
The trail was well marked but much rockier than I expected. My feet feel stronger after the 100 miles I put in during March, but I was still pretty cautious and grateful for the assistance of my poles on a number of occasions.
As always, I took it pretty slow on the uphills, my 30-pound pack weighing me down. I hope my pack never reaches that weight on the Superior Hiking Trail, but I was carrying a lot of water/gatorade, a heavy tent (my new ultralight tent hasn't arrived yet), all my cold-weather Minnesota gear, and extra food in case I couldn't finish the hike in two days, so the pack was heavy. Oh well...carrying the weight was good training, but I could definitely feel it.
Spring wildflowers were out, and I saw a couple of snakes and a bunch of little lizards. Parts of the trail were wet with runoff from recent rains, but the rocks were the main feature.
There were a lot of rocks.
At about 6.5 miles, I found a little rivulet big enough to dip water from, so I put some in my dirty water bag to filter just in case I needed it before the real water source appeared. Just 50 yards after that, I came up on a group of 4 women about my age out for a two-night trip headed the opposite direction. They assured me that they'd gotten through the burned section and that there was plenty of water ahead. I was much less anxious after meeting them, but they weren't as happy to learn that there weren't any real water sources until they got to the state park. They were all training for longer trips and had more backpacking experience than I did, so it was nice to chat with them for a bit.
After a while, I started a major descent and happily moved into some more shaded and more gently graded areas. Soon I was within sight of a creek, where I happily gulped a couple of bottles of water after filtering it. I also had a small snack, but I wasn't really hungry. I should have eaten more anyway, but I was more thirsty than anything else. After crossing the creek and leaving the little oasis with its shaded rock, I almost immediately came up on a group of Boy Scouts. They'd just filtered water, too, and asked about other water sources ahead (none before their proposed campsite). The leader kept insisting that he could get out his filter if I needed to get more water even though I assured him I'd just done my own filtering just 100 yards back. Maybe he just didn't want to leave the nice shady spot where they were resting! I wouldn't blame him. It was cooler down in the trees than it would be for them once they ascended out of the valley. One of the boys told me not to worry about water now since there were at least three sources in the next few miles, but they must have been loaded down with water since they needed enough to do the miles I'd already done that day plus camp somewhere in the middle of those miles, make dinner with no nearby source, and hike out to the state park the next day. They looked burdened enough with all their stuff, so I thanked them for the information, relieved I'd chosen the direction I'd come so I could get the harder section out of the way in the morning (never mind that I'd retrace that harder section later the next day in the heat myself!)
I hadn't been paying very close attention to the map since the trail had been so well marked, and there was supposed to be a massive, distinctive geologic feature just over a mile past the water source, but it soon became clear to me that the small creek where I'd gotten water was not the same as the water source marked on my map, so I wasn't as far along on the trail as I thought I was. This was no big deal, really, but I resolved to pay more attention to my location in the future, if only for the psychological benefit of knowing where I was.
Even though I was getting tired, this little pine grove was great. It's amazing how nice pine needles feel under your feet after miles of pointy, pokey rocks. The soft tread didn't last long, just a few hundred yards, probably, but the trail was more gentle and shaded from here forward, so it wasn't too bad.
I was feeling ok at mile 10, rejuvenated by access to more cool stream water and the softer tread. There were still rocks in sections, but part of the trail was just dirt, too.
By mile 12, though, I was hurting. I hobbled to within sight of the Mina Sauk Falls, the highest falls in Missouri, and quickly forced down some calories, suddenly certain that I hadn't eaten enough during the day. I also drank a bunch more water since I suspected I was a bit dehydrated from being too conservative with my water on the first half of the day. At this point, after my break, I lost the trail for the first time. It looked like the trail went straight up beside the waterfall, and though I didn't see any markers on the trees, I knew I somehow had to get to the top of the falls. I could see other hikers up there. The next morning, I'd figure out that I'd guessed wrong and took a much steeper (but more direct) way up the falls. Oh well.
At the top of the falls, I saw a couple of possible campsites, but they were near where some day-hikers had been hanging out, and I wasn't sure I was allowed to camp there. I hadn't met my mileage goal for the day, but I was tired and wasn't sure I could find a better site. Plus, how often do you get to camp just feet from the top of a great waterfall? I sent Jeff a message from my satellite messenger telling him I was done for the day, but I didn't set up the tent. I was still hungry, so dinner was the first priority.
I love my little JetBoil. It took less than 2 min. to boil water for my Beef Stroganoff, and while my meal rehydrated and cooked, I peeled off my wet shoes and socks (wet from a big stream crossing a couple miles back), put on my camp shoes, and sat near the top of the falls, finally seeing an official trail marker on the other side of the river and confirming that I hadn't been on the right trail during my ascent to the top of the falls.
After my dinner, I felt better but the bugs were coming out and being annoying. Not really wanting to sit there for another couple of hours until dark, I decided to head around part of the Mina Sauk Loop at the top of the falls and find a quieter spot to camp near the top of Taum Sauk mountain, the high point of Missouri.
However, I started getting kind of worried when, as I kept hiking, the amount of land burned in the controlled burn earlier that week kept getting larger and larger. It was still smoking in a few spots, and I thought I might have a bit of trouble finding a spot for the tent that wasn't directly on the trail, which, because it was mostly rocks, was about the only unburned area in sight.
I made it to the high point of Missouri just before 7 p.m. and saw a grassy clearing nearby where I could come back to camp if I needed to, but I decided to go forward for another 15 minutes to see if I could find something better. That would give me just enough time to get back to the clearing and set up before dark if I needed to.
Eventually, I came on this small unburned area on some rocks with a great view of the sunset. Everything smelled like smoke, but I didn't have enough time to make it all the way around the loop back to the top of the falls where it wasn't burned, so this became my campsite for the night. If I'd had my new non-free-standing tent, I would have stayed back in the larger clearing where I could stake it more easily, but I had our old 5-pound biking tent that doesn't need to be staked, so I quickly pitched it on the rocks, washed up a bit with a baby wipe, made a quick call to Jeff, and was sound asleep soon after 8:30 with about 14.5 miles done for the day.
It had been in the 40s overnight, I think, and I was perfectly comfortable, even a bit too warm, overnight. I got up at 6 and had finished breakfast, packing, and all my morning chores before 7. I'm usually out of camp faster than that, but I'm out of practice. As I headed out, the trail was still about the only unburned part of the area until I got back to the top of the falls.
There, I found the trail I should have come up the previous day. It was pretty rugged, so I wasn't sad about my little shortcut yesterday, but I followed it as it dropped down right to the bottom of the falls. The falls only run in wet weather, so I was glad to see them. Pretty impressive! I managed to keep my feet dry on this stream crossing, but I knew I'd soon get wet on the larger creek crossing, so I didn't worry too much about the muddy sections of trail.
From the bottom of the falls, I'd retrace my steps back to my car at Johnson's Shut-Ins. This time, though, I had the advantage of knowing where my last water source was, so I drank almost a full liter before I left camp and carried minimal water during the morning to lighten my load.
I tried to make good time through this flatter bottom section since I knew it would be the easiest part of the day, but I did stop to look more carefully at the Devil's Tollgate formation in the morning light. When I'd passed through yesterday, I was too tired to explore.
When I hit the last stream crossing, I filtered a ton of water and stayed there for about a half an hour drinking 50 oz., eating a bag of chips, and having a small pile of M&Ms to fuel up for the harder miles ahead. I was reluctant to leave my little spot but confident that I had enough water this time. I could feel the temps rising. With a forecast of 80 degrees, I knew I had to stay well hydrated to keep headaches at bay. I don't do super well in the heat and sun once it gets that warm, but I was paying better attention to the map and being sure to drink at least 10 oz. every mile. I was peeing about every hour, so I was more than adequately hydrated!
I didn't take many pictures on the way back since most everything looked the same as yesterday, but this little guy stood still long enough for me to take its picture.
And this one wouldn't leave me alone during one of my breaks. Shooing it away was unproductive. Shade was in limited supply on most parts of the last 8 or so miles, so where there was shade, the bugs and I shared it. I sent Jeff a few texts from this spot, letting him know that I had 4 miles left and was really starting to drag.
As I rested, another group of boy scouts came by at what seemed like a really fast pace. I could tell some of the boys were hurting, and it sounded like they were getting low on water. I asked if anyone wanted a Duck Dynasty Nalgene bottle I'd picked up off the trail earlier (probably from one of the scouts I met yesterday since I was pretty sure it wasn't from that group of women I'd met), and one of the kids relieved me of carrying it and trying to find it a new home.
Before I left the shady spot, I ate a bunch of M&Ms and some other snacks, drank some Gatorade, and finally decided to power on, hopeful that the worst of the rocky sections were over, but I couldn't remember for sure.
I stopped again with a little over 2 miles to go and drank a bunch more. My feet and one knee were getting sore, my shoulders were aching, and I was ready to be done for the day. The final major descent was a challenge. Descending is usually more painful for me, especially late in the day, and this one was especially so. I had the beginnings of a blister on the bottom of one foot because of earlier descents with wet socks, but I'd changed into a dry pair almost as soon as I felt it, so it never got worse, but I was still babying it.
Just as I crossed into Johnson's Shut Ins, I saw this collard lizard on a downed tree. When I got home, I learned that the fire management in this area is partly designed to help their populations: http://www.nps.gov/ozar/naturescience/lizards.htm
I still had a ways to go to get back to the trailhead, but once I hit the park boundary, I knew I was going to make it.
This trip was the most miles I'd ever done in two days with the most weight in the pack on the most rugged trails, and I didn't feel totally incapacitated by the trip. I didn't feel awesome at the end, of course, but I felt ok. My feet were really sore as I limped into a Mexican restaurant in Farmington for dinner before finishing the drive home, but by the next morning, I was just sore and not in (much) pain, so I feel more ready for my trip than ever.
Snow...
Nearly every morning, I check the conditions on the trail via email and at http://www.shta.org/Conditions.php. The news hasn't been great. One person in the Superior Trail Hiking Yahoo Group was hoping to start in April, and a chorus of locals chimed in to tell him the trail would be rough, if not impassible, even at the end of April. There's a lot of speculation about how late the trail will be ready to hike, which is causing me some consternation since I'd like to leave as soon as possible after graduation.
April 10, 2014: Here are some snow depths on the SHT measured on April 9th out from these trailheads: Castle Danger 25"; Split Rock River Wayside 20"; Caribou River Wayside 24"; Finland Recreation Center 35".
Finland is about 2/3 of the way up the trail. Who knows how much snow is left further north.
A week later, the news was a bit more hopeful:
April 17, 2014: Spring melting has started but there is lots to go. Rivers are starting to open up. Gooseberry Falls opened last Friday. Snow depths are still anywhere from 12" to 30". It will likely be mid-May before the trail is dried out enough for hiking. In the north, Jackson Lake Road and Otter Lake Road are not plowed in the winter so until the snow melts you cannot get to the northern end of the trail.
Since there was some talk that the trail would be nearly impassible until later in May, this mid-May date sounds better. I'm trying to thread the needle between snow melt/mud and major bug season. There may not be much time between the two this year, so I may have to pick which will be worse for me--mud or bugs. Hiking in mud isn't great for the trail. Hiking in bugs isn't great for my sanity. I have to be off the trail by the end of the third week of June so I can go to a conference. Decisions, decisions.
April 10, 2014: Here are some snow depths on the SHT measured on April 9th out from these trailheads: Castle Danger 25"; Split Rock River Wayside 20"; Caribou River Wayside 24"; Finland Recreation Center 35".
Finland is about 2/3 of the way up the trail. Who knows how much snow is left further north.
A week later, the news was a bit more hopeful:
April 17, 2014: Spring melting has started but there is lots to go. Rivers are starting to open up. Gooseberry Falls opened last Friday. Snow depths are still anywhere from 12" to 30". It will likely be mid-May before the trail is dried out enough for hiking. In the north, Jackson Lake Road and Otter Lake Road are not plowed in the winter so until the snow melts you cannot get to the northern end of the trail.
Since there was some talk that the trail would be nearly impassible until later in May, this mid-May date sounds better. I'm trying to thread the needle between snow melt/mud and major bug season. There may not be much time between the two this year, so I may have to pick which will be worse for me--mud or bugs. Hiking in mud isn't great for the trail. Hiking in bugs isn't great for my sanity. I have to be off the trail by the end of the third week of June so I can go to a conference. Decisions, decisions.
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